Q&A for How to Clean and Disinfect Wooden Cooking Utensils

Try to use the disinfectant soap. If that doesn't work, use the wipes and soap.

Make sure the wood isn't soft for moldy. You should be able to disinfect them using a mild bleach solution, at 1 part bleach to 20 parts water. If they're hand-carved and of sentimental value, consider using them for display purposes and make sure they're meant to be cooked with in the first place.

When using wood in a kitchen it is important to keep it clean, sealed with oil, and away from moisture. After using it, clean it well with a very mild soap. Then let it dry, very well. Leaving it in the sun will help to disinfect it well, if not, leave it overnight or even dry it in the oven at a very low temp. The key is making sure there is no moisture because if there is, bacteria will live there. Next make sure to seal it so moisture doesn't seal in, using cooking oil does a fine job, there is also wood sealing oil. Either way, oil it twice a week, unless you use it often, then oil it every week. Just like any wood, you are treating it to keep it healthy.

Don't let them sit in water - wash and dry them immediately. Alternately, you can try bamboo utensils instead of wood, which are more durable and don't rot or warp as easily.

To clean and restore your wooden masher, first, gently wash it with warm water and mild soap, using a soft brush for any pits, and avoid soaking it. For disinfection, wipe it with a 1:1 white vinegar-to-water solution or spray it with 3% hydrogen peroxide, then rinse and dry thoroughly. If you wish to fill small pits, you can push food-safe beeswax or a mix of beeswax and food-grade mineral oil into them while warm; let it cool and scrape smooth. Sand lightly only if necessary to level rough spots, working up to a fine grit, then remove all dust. Condition the wood generously with food-grade mineral oil, repeating until it no longer absorbs the oil. For long-term protection, you can rub in a thin coat of food-safe walnut oil or butcher-block oil and buff it. If the item is particularly valuable, you might consider consulting a conservator before attempting restoration.

Yes, it is normal. Teak contains natural oils and soluble tannins that can leach when exposed to very hot water, especially from new or unfinished pieces. This brownish color is harmless and will typically fade over time with regular use. To minimize leaching, you can wash the utensil once with mild soap and hot water, allow it to air-dry, then rub in food-grade mineral oil and buff. You should avoid prolonged boiling or soaking; these utensils are best for stirring or serving rather than extended simmering.

Yes, red punch can stain vintage wood. Lemon juice can help with stains but may not fully remove deep ones and could dry or bleach the finish. Always test any cleaning method on an inconspicuous area first. To prevent staining, consider lining the bowl with a food-safe insert. If a stain occurs, blot it immediately, rinse with warm water (avoid soaking), and then try rubbing it with coarse salt and half a lemon or a paste of baking soda and water. For valuable antiques, consult a conservator.

The wood has likely not been fully dissolved, but its surface is seriously damaged. Prolonged exposure to bleach and soap breaks down lignin and cellulose, which swells the fibers and creates a slimy, hair-like fibrillated surface. Bleach can also strip finishes and harden or embrittle wood. To address this, thoroughly rinse and dry the utensil. Lightly sand any fuzzy areas with fine to medium grit sandpaper to remove raised fibers. Clean the dust, then condition the wood with food-grade mineral oil or a suitable finish. If the wood remains spongy or crumbles, you should replace the utensil.