Q&A for How to Veneer Wood

One tip I'd give is when you buy wood, take the time to look through the pile and pick the straightest planks you can find. This makes everything you do a lot easier down the line. Also, if you're buying wood from big box stores like Home Depot, you can actually return any unused or warped pieces which you usually can't do at a specialty lumberyard.

For waxed paper, you will have to scratch it off. Or if there is a piece missing, scratch the veneer parts from there, since it is easy to do.

Yes. Just make sure the tile is clean and smooth. Use a strong adhesive meant for both tile and wood veneer to help it stick well. Keep in mind that you might need to trim the veneer to fit properly. Sealing the veneer afterward will also help protect it from moisture in the kitchen.

Make sure that the finish does not chemically react with the glue used to secure the veneer. Test a sample section to perfect your finish before staining or applying polyurethane to the entire project.

Yes, gluing wood veneer to a balsa-frame dollhouse cupboard works well for a realistic finish. Use thin veneer (0.5–1 mm) and lightweight balsa to avoid warping. Sand surfaces smooth and ensure edges fit tightly. Suitable adhesives include PVA wood glue (apply a thin layer) or contact cement for a faster bond. Make sure glue application is neat to hide any visible spots, especially if aiming for period authenticity. For contact cement, apply glue to both surfaces. Clamp lightly or use weights and a flat caul with wax paper to keep the veneer flat while drying and prevent sticking. Trim excess with a sharp blade and finish edges with sanding sealer or thin wood filler. You can seal and finish with diluted shellac, spray lacquer, or a matte varnish for durability.